From its website, you might get the impression that Hawkins Grange Farm is set in the middle of rolling countryside. Photographs show hayfields, distant woodland, wild poppies, and picket fences blanketed in snow. The site says that the farm makes hay, although there are “19 chickens and two horses”, and “you may choose to sit back, relax and listen to the tranquil sounds of birdsong”.

So far, so idyllic, but then you arrive and realise that the farm is right on the edge of a council estate.

A man by the post office in Datchworth village - which has a cricket pitch and a couple of shops and pubs, reminding me of John Major's “long shadows on cricket grounds and warm beer” - had given me directions:

“Follow the road and it's right by the council estate. You can't miss it.”

What a letdown, I was thinking as we drove past the estate to the farmhouse, which turned out to be more modern than I had thought (built in the 1980s) with a half-finished aircraft hangar-style barn at the back.

But after the initial setback, I began to like Hawkins Grange. Jane Dodson, the owner, with her husband, Roger, was charming and soon enthusiastically recommending local sites: Shaw's Corner (George Bernard Shaw's old house), Knebworth country house, St Albans cathedral, the Henry Moore Foundation at Perry Green, the Hitchin lavender fields, and Hertford's medieval centre.

Dazzled by all these Hertfordshire options, we were led to a cosy bedroom above the Dodsons' living area with a thick cream carpet, a kettle with Fairtrade tea, and a bathroom with Gilchrist & Soames toiletries. Everything was neat, tidy and well organised, as you would expect of an AA five-star B&B.

We could see the barn, a hayfield - the farm has 45 acres (18ha) - and a coop housing the 19 chickens. Hedges and trees kept the estate out of view, and we did feel as if we were in the middle of the countryside.

After visiting Shaw's Corner and St Albans, however, we discovered the real reason to stay - the Tilbury pub in Datchworth.

A short walk through the sedate, well-kept estate and into the village proper brought us to the Tilbury; run by Paul Bloxham and Ben Crick (“celebrity chefs” according to Hertfordshire Life magazine).

The pub was excellent: modern art, friendly waitresses and a cosy bar. Tables were packed; a reservation was necessary. We ate asparagus with poached egg, smoked duck with chutney, pork with mash that somehow managed to look like nouvelle cuisine, and sticky toffee pudding. The food came quickly and was well cooked.

So was our breakfast. The 19 chickens delivered and the full English breakfast was top notch. The website may be a bit cheeky, but Hawkins Grange came up trumps in the end.

Bottom line Mystery Guest paid £70 for a B&B double

Sampling the fare Great breakfast; £35pp for three courses with wine at the Tilbury

Best thing The Tilbury

Worst thing The estate

Need to know Hawkins Grange Farm (01438 813369, www.hawkinsgrangefarm.com), Datchworth, Herts SG3 6TF

Room 5.5 out of 10

Food 7 out of 10 (breakfast)

Service 7 out of 10

PUT TO THE TEST: 20 Mystery Guest questions for... Hawkins Grange Farm

1. Do rooms have kettles/coffee makers? And is there fresh milk?

Yes, kettles on "hostess trays" with biscuits and Fairtrade coffee and tea. Fresh milk on request.

2. Is there a hairdryer, and is it fixed to a wall?

Yes.

3. Are coathangers metal, wooden, removable?

Wooden removeable.

4. Complimentary bottle of water?

Yes.

5. Sheets and blankets or duvets?

Duvets.

6. What about a 'pillow menu'?

Anti-allergy pillows available.

7. Is lighting good enough for reading?

Yes.

8. Is there a shaving/make up mirror? And is it well lit?

Yes.

9. What about the in-room entertainment system?

TV, DVD and Freeview.

10. Is there a temperature control panel?

Radiators can be controlled.

11. Do the windows open?

Yes.

12. Is there good sound-proofing?

Reasonable.

13. Is there wi-fi internet access?

Yes, free.

14. Is there a good place to go jogging nearby?

Lots of places including National Heritage wood at end of road.

15. What is the vegetarian food selection like?

OK for breakfast.

16. Is there baby listening/babysitting? And are children welcome at adults’ evening meals?

No.

17. Is there wheelchair access to all areas?

No.

18. Do you get a free paper in the morning?

No.

19. Is there a pub round the corner?

Yes, the stylish Tilbury and the down-to-earth Plough.

20. Is there free car parking? And is it secure?

Yes on a private drive.

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