Jon Nurse
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I heard about a four-week project teaching English at a remote primary school in Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka from a friend who was going to take a gap month last summer. Less than a year later I was running the Sheffield half marathon to raise £1,000 for my trip to Asia.
The first obstacle for Sri Lanka as a potential gap destination is that the country is trapped in civil war. The conflict involving the Tamil Tigers, a militant organisation demanding an independent Tamil state in the north, has been affecting the country since the 1970s. This can cause concern for gap travellers but it is not a reason to rule visiting altogether. Tourists are advised to not to cross a set line which splits the country from North to South, and as long as this advice is upheld it the trip should be safe.
My group were stopped at various checkpoints as we travelled the landscape, and saw our fair share of men guarding posts in fatigues staring intently with a machine gun. That said, most would smile and wave once they realised we were foreign.
The project was organised by gap year organisation, Real Gap Experience. I stayed with a friendly host family in a picturesque bungalow overlooking an endless paddy field. My host family had a successful business fixing jeeps for local safaris.
Staying with a host family is good for travellers looking for a genuine cultural experience, but it is a life without many creature comforts. In fact, I spent time with some very different creatures altogether. Sleeping without air conditioning is a stuffy ordeal and even after a month I hadn’t got used to flies swarming over my food or various cockroaches and frogs watching as I used the bathroom.
The Sri Lanka experience was also very different for white women. Those in my group often felt uncomfortable with the unwanted attention they were receiving from the local men. It is however an affordable destination for students because the local currency of rupees very weak against the pound.
Sri Lanka’s climate is hot, but not unbearable - 30 - 35C is standard. The climate can seem stuffy and uncomfortable for the first few days, but people soon adapt.
Potential travellers should check the forecast before setting off as monsoon season effects different parts of the country at different times. Adam’s Peak, a centrepiece of many of the island’s religions, is constantly shrouded with mist during the rainy season.
Teaching at a primary school is a rewarding experience for those with dedication and patience. I was placed in a tiny primary school in Polonnaruwa, in the central dry zone. There were 30 pupils to teach, each of them excitable and adorable. The children were keen to learn and the teachers very eager to hear about different teaching methods in the west. We were all reduced to tears when we had to leave the school on the final day, although mine may have been partly because I’d just been bowled out by a 10-year-old.
The trip allowed for free weekends which gave me the freedom to explore the country. There is enough variety to keep tourists interested for a month or more. I saw my fair share of sandy beaches, tropical landscapes, challenging mountains, cheery locals and curry.
The southern beaches are only a few hours travel from the capital Colombo and historic ruins are six or more hours from the capital. The ancient cities of Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura can each be viewed in a day. The Sigiriya ruins of a palace on top of a giant rock, and the Danbulla cave temples are also tourist attractions in the area worth visiting for those interested in the country’s vibrant history.
The cities of Kandy and Galle are particularly popular with western tourists, whilst Jaffna, although described by many travel guides as one of the country’s most beautiful cities, is in the restricted north and is very unsafe.
Considering the country is half the size of England there is a surprising amount of different landscapes to experience, from the rolling tea fields of the hill country, to the chilly heights of Horton Plains National Park.
The best way to travel as a group is to hire a minibus since local drivers are used to weaving through the dangerous roadways, and trains are outdated, unreliable and overcrowded.
Sri Lanka is without doubt the 'Pearl of the Orient', and if it wasn’t for the ongoing civil war it would be a popular tourist destination. But there are serious problems hidden behind the beautiful picture perfect sights. For a Buddhist nation they show a surprising disregard for their environment. Rubbish is strewn everywhere and unwatched fires can get out of hand and destroy the countryside.
Some of the nation is also in desperate poverty. We spent one afternoon with some fishermen in a shanty town in Colombo. They showed us how they had received no help from the government after high waves destroyed their homes on the beach in April.
It may not be the obvious choice for a gap year break, but if it’s a cheap cultural experience students are looking for Sri Lanka could be the destination for you.
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We also run a teaching project in Sri Lanka (the Central Highlands area, far from the war zone!). Take a look at our site at www.srilankaundiscovered.co.uk to find out more. I spend part of the year over there. Our schools are mainly on tea estates with classes of around 20, aged 5-16 years.
Angela Whitehead, Gueret, France