Backpacking Cambodia isn't an undertaking for the faint-hearted. Not because its tough to travel around - because its not. And it doesn't feel dangerous, unlike say, South America, known to induce anxiety in even the most experienced gapper. No - Cambodia is different. This nation will lure you in with promises of cheap hostels and ancient temples, drag you down one of its back alleys, beat you up, then give you a lift to its nicest hospital and pamper you for a week. Come here and you will see for yourself why Angelina Jolie rants on about how amazing this country is.

Leaving Vietnam armed with a handful of US dollars (the de facto currency here - the Cambodian Riel is almost never seen), the distinction between the two countries couldn't be more pronounced. Swapping our air-conditioned, 24-seater bus for a 12-seater near-derelict minibus (while keeping the 24 passengers), my companions and I found ourselves unexpectedly bombing along unsealed dirt tracks, narrowly avoiding emaciated bulls that wander of their own accord across the main roads.

Then, as our bus boarded a very suspect-looking wooden raft to cross a tributary of the Mekong River, we were bombarded by hoards of street kids, clambering at the bus windows to get our attention. Not begging. Or selling. Just waving. One kid has serious physical deformities. Another girl has half an arm (landmines are still an enormous problem here and the country has one of the highest rates of amputee victims in the world). A quick moment of anguish later and we're on the road again, heading to the capital Phnom Penh.

Unlike any other country on the backpacker's tourist circuit, Cambodia - in my experience - manages to tug at the heart strings of the Western tourist. Almost never asking for sympathy, almost always sincere, Cambodians have an honesty that will both amaze and baffle you. And rightly so - their tortuous recent history, including years of brutal torture and widespread genocide, seemingly wasn't enough to destroy the national spirit of this country. During the 70s, The Khmer Rouge - Cambodia's ultra-communists - was responsible for one of the worst atrocities of the 20th century, butchering a quarter of the country's population and crippling the nascent economy. Despite almost every adult city-dweller having family members who died or were maimed during the brutality, these people exude an optimism unmatched in many other nations.

And where better to experience this than in the skeletal, primitive capital of Phnom Pehn. Don't expect to find your usual city luxuries here - fast food franchises haven't made it this far east yet and cash points only started being installed in 2006, with few accepting anything other than major brand credit cards. Taxis are also in inconceivably short supply, with locals taking motorbikes (sometimes loaded with up to five passengers) around the city, and tourists opting for the relative comfort of moped-drawn tuk-tuks. Don't be put off though - this form of transport is exhilarating and you will quickly accustom yourself to it.

Characterised by narrow badly-lit alleyways, vibrant backpacker hangouts and quirky restaurants where you'll befriend the local kids within minutes, Phnom Penh will affect you from day one. A day trip to the site of the mass executions and torture houses is both poignant and essential. And for the more trigger-happy traveller, a number of industrious Cambodians offer the chance to fire ex-civil war machine guns for an extortionate $30 - ask any tuk-tuk driver for details. For a more altruistic experience, a group of students have set up camp in Phnom Penh and recruit volunteer backpackers into teaching local kids English and giving them some much needed play-time outside of their busy 16-hour days selling books. This experience should not be missed and was truly one of the most engaging and edifying activities of my time in SE Asia.

Luckily Cambodia doesn't have a set backpacker trail running through it, affording the chance for a varied and more tailored journey. Travelling south to the shores of the Gulf of Thailand, the backpacker hangout of Sihanoukville offers all-night beach parties, relatively clean water and a decent weather record. In contrast, Northern Cambodia offers a more authentic perspective - in particular the village of Kratie and its surroundings. Don't be lured in by the promise of swimming with dolphins - the risk of water-borne infection will keep you well out of the water if the dolphins even dared to come close enough (which they don't). That said, its a chance to see Cambodian life almost untainted by the US dollar, and you'll be grateful for the bus journeys through local rural surroundings if nothing else.

Yet the real reason so many backpackers end up planning a trip to Cambodia is for Angkor Wat - 800 year old temples on a scale to match Walt Disney's empires. Siem Reap, launch pad for the ruins, is like stepping into another world - with cash points, paved streets and even 24-hour street lighting. This isn't real Cambodia, but a welcome break from it all the same. The city is a hot-bed for travellers with a number of bar-lined streets acting as a meeting point for lonely backpackers, or those trying to shake off unwelcome hangers-on. Take full advantage of this place - aside from Phnom Penh there isn't many similar locations in Cambodia.

But on to the main attraction. Pretty much everybody you ever meet who went to Cambodia will tell you that one day isn't enough for Angkor Wat - but this is not entirely true. Manageable in five hours, only the temple-hungry will want to go back for more. Watch out for the life-threatening midday heat and ask other tourists how much to pay for a day's tuk-tuk hire, but prepared to be wowed by the scale of this monster of a archaeological site. You can clamber all over this vast network of spectacular monuments and will be mesmerised by some of the most dazzling shines on the planet.

Don't be mistaken - Cambodia is very much geared up for tourism. It's not always the easiest place to travel, but there's always a tourist bus going your way, always a clerk to exchange your travellers cheques and an abundance of restaurants and hostels to keep you out of trouble. Expect to be exploited - the days of Cambodia being a cheap backpacker destination are long gone with the dollar being milked to its full advantage. But it’s still a lot cheaper than Thailand and a huge difference to back home. This country will certainly leave an impression on you, so settle into your tuk-tuk, try to keep your nose out of the Lonely Planet and enjoy the ride.

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